higher temperatures and intense sunlight.
Culture and history: The major religion in the Jaffna area is Hinduism. The area is slowly recovering
from years of civil war and some ruined buildings can be seen. However, the region is now very safe.
Getting there: An air-conditioned private vehicle is the quickest and most comfortable way
for tourists to travel to Jaffna and explore the surrounding area. Travel time from Colombo is
about 10 hours, including breaks for food. Hiring a driver who understands the local road laws is
recommended. Busses and trains also connect Jaffna with many other cities but are often crowded
and very hot.
Notes: Jaffna is predominately a Tamil-speaking area and a language barrier exists between this
region and the rest of Sri Lanka. However, most people who interact with foreigners also speak some
English and, failing this, there is always someone nearby willing to act as a translator.
Jaffna Town and Fort:
Jaffna Town: Walking the main streets of Jaffna is fascinating. The hustle and bustle of the city,
colourful road-side stalls and the pervasive smell of spice make it easy to spend many hours in town.
In true Sri Lankan style, the local people are very friendly and will always return a smile. The majority
of women wear traditional clothing and the brightly-coloured saris set this town apart from others in
Sri Lanka.
Jaffna Fort: A relic from Dutch colonial times, the fort at Jaffna is now mostly ruined. However, the
site is very impressive and one can easily spend a few hours wandering in the central courtyard
and along the old walls overlooking the sea. It is recommended to visit in the early morning or late
afternoon, as there is little shade to be found. The fort is conveniently located in central Jaffna.
Preservation and restoration work was underway at the time of writing.
Kasurina Beach: Located about 30km from central Jaffna, on the northern-most tip of the island
of Karainagar, is Kasurina Beach. Picture perfect, the beach boasts expanses of white sand, clear
water and barely a ripple in sight. Perfect for soaking up the sun or for a refreshing swim, Kasurina
Beach is quiet, visited only by a handful of locals. Some waterfront stores sell ice-cream, cold water
and beach toys. A motor boat ride from the shore is also available. The beach has excellent facilities
including change rooms, bathrooms and a sun pagoda for picnicking. The beach closes at around
7pm, so for the last few hours before sunset the water is almost deserted and very serene and the
colours of the sunset reflect off the still water.
Recommended Accommodation: Pillaiyar Inn provides clean, large and air-conditioned rooms at an
affordable price. An on-site restaurant with a large menu offering Jaffna-style food means that after
a long day exploring the area, finding quality food is simple. Pillaiyar Inn is well-located within easy
walking distance of busy Jaffna streets.
Temples:
Nallur Kandaswamy Temple: Located only minutes from central Jaffna, Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil is
very impressive. The typical Hindu spire of intricate and colourful carvings depicting gods and sacred
animals is enormous. The main temple building is surrounded by a sand courtyard, which contains
smaller some buildings and shrines, each just as colourful and impressive as the main building. The
temple complex really comes alive during and around festival time. Thousands of Hindus, travelling
from distant parts of Sri Lanka, gather to participate in the ceremony, the women and girls dressed
in saris of every colour and the men in sarongs. The temple serves as a gathering point and often
whole extended families can be seen sitting or praying together.
The interior is decorated opulently, the walls covered in paintings depicting important scenes from
the Hindu scriptures and the ceilings painted colourfully. Worshippers sit or kneel in front of many
small alcoves containing Hindu gods and crowd around of the centre of the building, participating in
chants led by the monks, who throw flowers and play drums and horns.
As per usual, shoes must be removed before entering the temple grounds. Furthermore, cameras
and phones may be used inside the temple complex but are prohibited from being used inside
the main temple building. Men must also remove their shirts before entering the main building.
However, there are plenty of photo opportunities and it is easy to stand at the doorway and take
photos of the incredible interior.
Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya: Nainativu Island, 35km east of Jaffna, is the site of one of the holiest
Buddhist temples in Sri Lanka – Nagadeepa Purana Rajamaha Viharaya. Purportedly the site of
Buddha’s second visit to Sri Lanka, five years after attaining enlightenment, this temple features a
large stupa containing a huge statue of Buddha as well as many intricate paintings. It also features
statues of the five-headed cobra, originally called the nagadeepa, which gives its name to the
temple. From Jaffna city it takes approximately one and a half hours to reach the ferry terminal that
services Nainativu Island. The drive is very interesting as the newly-constructed road is on top of
a narrow strip of land. The bright blue sea flanks both sides of the road and contains many fishing
nets strung out in the shallow water. From the ferry terminal, there is only a short wait for the ferry,
which is used predominately by locals. A seat near the entrance of the ferry or on the deck will give
excellent views of the sea, mainland and the island.
Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil: A short walk from Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya is a magnificent Hindu
kovil. Just as impressive as Nallur Kandaswamy, the entire exterior of Naga Pooshani Amman is
painted in bright and exotic colours. Intricately carved and painted statues and figures rise up high
over the entrance, which is flanked by two huge statues of elephants. Cows wander around inside
the courtyard and are happy to be petted. Like Nallur Kandaswamy, the interior is very colourful,
with many stories and patterns painted on the walls and ceiling. Again, photography inside the main
temple building is forbidden and men must remove their shirts, although there are plenty of photo
opportunities outside the main building and in the courtyard.
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